Torres Del Paine (EcoCamp)

Completing the "W," Taking it Easy 

Saturday January 12, 2008

Well, as the guides described our last leg of the "W," it sounded slightly but not too challenging. In actuality it was probably the hardest hiking day of all - not much more than 10 miles, but with over 3000 feet of overall elevation gain and plenty of additional up and down along the way to add to that 3000 feet of overall climb.

So Lynn started out with us on a hike that began with a couple of miles in which the trail climbed over 1000 feet. It was really a tough walk, the trekking group set a pretty rigorous pace, and along with a stiff wind, the combination made it hard to breath for everyone and especially her. Her cold had given her some asthma/wheezing problems earlier, and shortly before we reached the crest of a hill beyond which the trial dropped down to a camp and resting spot, she began to wheeze and had to turn back.  This wasn't a logistic problem for the guides and the trekkers, since we began the hike from Eco-Camp with three guides and were intending to return to camp the same day. Roberto escorted Lynn back to a road where a van from camp could pick her up and take her back, and then Roberto ran back up the trail to catch up - a feat that impressed all the tourist trekkers but apparently is something that the guides end up doing fairly often.

Starting out the hike.

And climbing up into the Valle Ascensio (Ascent Valley).

Things didn't get easier after our rest stop at Chilean Camp. The trail followed the river upward for awhile, and then we turned left and climbed up and over the spine of a bouldery moraine. We had climbed about 3000 feet by now.

Why did we do it? To get up-close views of the torres of Torres del Paine, and the glacier-melt lagoon at their base!

Geoff is not too awe-struck to eat.

Looking back at what we climbed up.

The kids are on top of the world - (or rock, at least).

By the time we straggled back into camp, everyone (or at least I) was exhausted and foot-sore. Lynn was understandably frustrated at not being able walk with the group, and the wheezing episode had left her feeling pretty weak. But at least her cold was finally beginning to abate. 

The next day the guides took us around in the minibuses for a combination of rides and short walks that covered some more interesting and scenic places in the park - but never did we venture very far from the road and the bus. Although it was as windy as ever, all the walks were flat and slow, with everyone taking their time and lots of pictures as well. It was a nice way to wind down after 4 straight days of hard hiking, and everyone  appreciated the relaxed pace. This program was no problem for Lynn, and I think taking a series of shorter walks helped her feel better and stronger. 

So here are the pictures from the excursion...

Looking to the east along the Rio Paine,

and back to the west at Almirante Nieto (from the same viewpoint).

A small marshy lagoon where guanaco and water birds hang out...

Looking northward at the Cuernos.   

These are pictures of  a short narrows connecting Lago Nordenskjöld in the north to Lago Pehoe in the south. The water level drops almost 50 meters between the two lakes and the falls only drops 15 meters, so the river runs pretty fast. 

Looking south at Lago Pehoe,

and then turning around to look northward across Lago Nordenskjöld towards the French Valley.  

The cuernos are always amazing.

Our hiking group (plus two from the "other group"). 

Standing (L-R)

                 Sarah: British Military Stationed at the Embassy in Santiago

                Suzanne: Emergency Care Doctor from Perth Australia - also the ship doctor on our Antarctica cruise!

                Grita: Professional Water-Ski Competition Judge (and former member of the Finish National Water-Ski team)

                John: Coach of the British National Water-Ski Team

                Bob #1 (only his hat is visible): Retired Engineer from Bishop, California

                Paula: Spouse of Bob

                Aud & Bob #2: Couple from Aptos, California

                Geoff Wietelmann: College Student at Middlebury College, Vt. but from Piedmont, Ca.

                Lynn Owens & Rolf Wietelmann: Couple from Piedmont, Ca. (parents of Geoff)

Kneeling (L-R)

                Lisa: Family Practice Doctor from Beaver Creek, Ohio (near Dayton)

                Anna Wietelmann: Middle-school student from Piedmont, Ca.

                Riswan: Emergency Care Doctor from Beaver Creek, Ohio (spouse of Lisa)

Seated (L-R)

                Roberto: Native of Punta Arenas, Chile - trekking guide for Cascada Expediciones, Puerto Natales, Chile

                Eduardo: similar bio to Roberto

                Tom: Middle-school student from Piedmont, Ca. (Anna's twin brother)

And back at the Eco-Camp, the cozy (but not always tidy) tents awaited our return.

Despite the early breakfast and departure from camp awaiting all the guests Sunday morning, the hiking groups and guides talked (and drank) late into the evening. We had some great conversations with our guides Roberto and Eduardo and also with Eduardo's girlfriend Carla who had joined us in the park for the day trip. Her and Eduardo were about to celebrate an anniversary during Eduardo's upcoming "días libros."  Eduardo told us that the far south of Chile was said by some (probably mostly the residents of the far south of Chile) to be the "last place in Chile where people are still nice..."    After we explained quite frankly not only what we liked about Chile, but also what we didn't like and what had been frustrating to us during our travels, Carla, who is originally from Santiago, gave us a little perspective from a native Chilena's point of view. Basically, she has the exact same opinion and feelings as we do - and she laments the Chilean "coldness" to not only foreigners but to each other.  She says it is extremely difficult to get neighbors to cooperate and work together in the residential neighborhoods of Santiago. Why is it like this, we wonder?

Perhaps we can explain a little of our bewilderment like this: we swooped into the country on an airplane and now see the current situation, which to us looks like an economy on the upswing (government budget surplus and surging stock market) along with tremendous and underutilized potential for development (including the tourist industry for sure!).  What we missed was the 10-15 years of well intended but ineffective/incompetent and economically stifling  (even without the shenanigans of Nixon and Kissinger) socialism bordering on outright communism, followed by the a similar time period of free-market economic upturn mandated and overseen by a brutal authoritarian dictator who tortured and "disappeared" anyone who posed a political threat or voiced contrary opinions. It was one extreme followed by the other, and both situations were seriously limiting to social and/or economic liberties in one way or the other.  In that context, it's more understandable why people might still be a little wary, shy, and reluctant to trust that good times (or political stability at the least) are here to stay - and behave with corresponding optimism. 

And in that context, it was especially nice and perhaps even privileged for us to hear Chileans talking openly about themselves and their country and what they think about it.  The conversations were an especially nice ending to a great experience on the trail and at the Eco-Camp, so we'll always remember our time spent in Torres del Paine, not only for the amazing natural beauty, but for the camaraderie and friendship of our guides and hiking partners.

-Rolf